Too many ingredients
Exploring the Hidden World of Restaurants: The Dish
For those who savor the artistry of food beyond mere sustenance, a steady diet of restaurant secrets has nourished our curiosity since Anthony Bourdain’s cautionary tale in the New Yorker back in 1999, warning us to avoid ordering fish on Mondays.
While much of the writing on the subject tends to focus on fine dining, it’s only fitting to pay homage to the meticulous craftsmanship and dedication required to create an exceptional gastronomic experience. These stories are not only told by chefs but also by servers, sommeliers, and those who have survived the trials and tribulations of the culinary world.
Andrew Friedman, a seasoned storyteller, has immersed himself in the culinary heights of the Bocuse d’Or competition in his book Knives at Dawn, as well as delving into culinary defeats in Don’t Try This at Home. With his extensive experience collaborating with chefs, hosting the podcast Andrew Talks to Chefs, and even appearing as a guest judge on Food Network’s Beat Bobby Flay, Friedman is more than qualified to present The Dish: The Lives and Labor Beneath One Plate of Food. However, this raises questions about objectivity. Is he cherry-picking by choosing Wherewithall, a 50-seat Chicago establishment, as the focus of his book?
Wherewithall, helmed by the talented married chef team of Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark, offers a dynamic four-course tasting menu that changes weekly, with occasional modifications. The night of service chronicled in the book takes place on July 24, 2021, during the challenging period of COVID-19 recovery. The featured dish, “Dry-Aged Strip Loin, Tomato, Sorrel,” embodies the restaurant’s aspirational approach ($85; $145 with wine pairings and cheese). Kim and Clark are not only dedicated and sincere in their craft but also highly respected by their peers. They even provide health insurance to their staff.
Wherewithall sources its ingredients from purveyors like Slagel Family Farm, known for their high-quality meats, poultry, and eggs. Thanks to Friedman’s attention to detail, readers gain insight into the life and work of LouisJohn Slagel, the young proprietor of the farm. Friedman’s vivid descriptions, such as his account of the Slagel slaughterhouse tour, showcase his journalistic eye for capturing the essence of a place: “I had never considered the brilliant job flesh does to contain the sickening niff of organs, blood, and feces. … The biological bouquet of that room haunted my olfactory senses for weeks.”
However, the abundance of backstories and details can become overwhelming, even for a reviewer. Friedman delves into the personal histories of each individual involved in creating the dish, from the sous chef with ADHD to the server with a creative writing scholarship. While it’s fascinating to learn about the diverse paths that led them to Wherewithall, it can feel excessive.
Let’s not forget the unsung heroes of the restaurant industry, like Wherewithall’s dishwasher, Bianca. Friedman acknowledges her vital role but mischaracterizes the public’s understanding of dishwashers. Dishwashers have been celebrated and recognized in various accounts, such as Ali Sonko, a former dishwasher turned business partner at Noma, and renowned chef-restaurateur Thomas Keller, who attributes his success to his time spent in the “dish pit.”
In the introduction of the book, Friedman poses the question: What do average restaurant patrons truly know about the effort behind their meals? The Dish goes beyond the average, providing an exhaustive exploration of the inner workings of a restaurant. It’s no surprise to discover that a restaurant is like a micro-nation, relying on numerous moving parts, and even the most noble establishments can succumb to external forces, as Wherewithall did in May 2023.
If, as Friedman mentioned in a recent podcast interview, The Dish is intended for those contemplating a career in professional kitchens, it’s uncertain whether he has done them any favors with this comprehensive account.
It’s worth noting that the 1999 fish caveat is no longer applicable.
About the Book:
The Dish: The Lives and Labor Beneath One Plate of Food
by Andrew Friedman
Mariner Books, 288 pp., $30
Bonnie S. Benwick, formerly of the Washington Post food section, is a freelance editor and recipe tester. You can find her on Instagram and Threads: @bbenwick.
How does the focus on Wherewithall and its chefs limit the representation of the diverse world of restaurants in “The Dish: The Lives and Labor Beneath One Plate of Food”?
Er, the focus on Wherewithall and its chefs may limit the scope of the book. While it provides a deep dive into the inner workings of a single restaurant, it may not fully capture the diverse world of restaurants and the different experiences and challenges they face. It would have been enriching to see the inclusion of stories from various types of establishments, from Michelin-starred restaurants to neighborhood gems.
Nonetheless, Friedman’s storytelling remains captivating throughout the book. He intertwines personal anecdotes, interviews, and historical references, making for a compelling narrative. The behind-the-scenes glimpses into the culinary world, from the chaotic prep work in the kitchen to the delicate plating of dishes, allow readers to appreciate the immense effort that goes into each meal.
Beyond the culinary aspect, Friedman also delves into the lives of the staff members behind the scenes. He sheds light on their struggles, aspirations, and the sacrifices they make to pursue their passion for food. These stories humanize the industry and remind us of the human element involved in every dining experience.
One particularly moving chapter is dedicated to the front-of-house staff, highlighting their role in curating the overall dining experience. Friedman shares the challenges faced by servers and sommeliers, giving them a voice often overlooked in the restaurant narrative. It is an important reminder of the teamwork and collaboration required to create a memorable dining experience.
“The Dish” is not just for food enthusiasts or industry insiders but also for anyone with a curiosity about the hidden world of restaurants. It dispels myths, illuminates the intricacies of the culinary process, and celebrates the dedication and passion of those who contribute to the creation of a singular dish.
In conclusion, “The Dish: The Lives and Labor Beneath One Plate of Food” offers an engaging exploration of the culinary world through the lens of Wherewithall. While it may have benefited from a broader focus, Andrew Friedman’s storytelling prowess and attention to detail make this book a worthwhile read for anyone interested in the artistry and complexity of the restaurant industry. Whether you savor the taste of each bite or appreciate the stories behind the dish, this book will undoubtedly leave you with a deeper appreciation for the hidden world of restaurants.
Sources:
– Bourdain, Anthony. “Don’t Eat Before Reading This.” The New Yorker, April 19, 1999.
– Friedman, Andrew. The Dish: The Lives and Labor Beneath One Plate of Food. Ecco, 2021.
– Friedman, Andrew. Knives at Dawn: The American Quest for Culinary Glory at the Legendary Bocuse d’Or Competition. Free Press, 2010.
– Friedman, Andrew. Don’t Try This at Home: Culinary Catastrophes from the World’s Greatest Chefs. Ecco, 2005.
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