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Sitting in the Lobby of Moscow’s Metropol Hotel: A Glimpse into Weimar Moscow
In the mid-’90s, I found myself sitting in the lobby of Moscow’s iconic Metropol hotel, captivated by the intriguing characters passing by. There were the enigmatic men, immersed in mysterious dealings, and the elegant women, involved in their own secretive affairs. Among them were the nouveau riche “new Russians,” flaunting their haute couture and disdain for the Soviet drabness. It was like stepping into a scene from Casablanca, I told my client, who was experiencing Russia for the first time.
The Magic Island of the Metropol: Contrasting Worlds
In his captivating book, The Red Hotel, Alan Philps vividly contrasts the extreme hardships endured by most of Moscow’s residents during World War II with the luxurious lifestyle enjoyed by the privileged few at the Metropol. The hotel, secure and comfortable, became a refuge from the chaotic city outside its walls. Philps describes it as an “island” amidst the turbulence, a stark contrast to the other mediocre Moscow hotels of the Soviet era.
The Metropol’s origins were far more glamorous. Built in 1905, this sprawling Art Nouveau building stood conveniently near the Bolshoi Theater and a short walk from Red Square. It symbolized modernity and progress, quickly transforming into a playground for the wealthy elite. The first ”girls of the Metropol” made their appearance, and they have rarely been absent since.
A Darker Vision: From Glamour to Despotism
However, Russia’s future took a darker turn. The Bolshevik government requisitioned the Metropol, turning it into accommodation and office space for the new regime. The hotel descended into squalor before its revival as an ”island of plenty” for influential foreign visitors. Yet, even within its walls, danger lurked. During the purges of the 1930s, residents like Evgeny Veger, a rising star in the Communist Party, could be snatched away by the secret police, leaving their loved ones in anguish.
As World War II unfolded, Moscow became a focal point for war correspondents. Philps delves into their experiences, revealing the Soviet leadership’s attempts to control what they saw and reported. The Metropol became a carefully monitored haven, isolating the journalists from ordinary Russians who might have shared valuable insights. The reporters’ encounters with the Soviet state were fraught with danger, as some chose to disclose the truth at great personal risk.
The Gilded Cage: Life Inside the Metropol
Life within the Metropol’s walls was a paradox. While journalists were shielded from the front lines of the war, they were also restricted in their reporting. The censors ensured that critical coverage was suppressed, leaving many to polish Kremlin propaganda. The journalists’ lives were further complicated by the fear of losing their Soviet visas, but the allure of high pay and the opportunity to write best-selling books about Russia kept them compliant.
Despite the challenges, the Metropol offered a semblance of luxury. It may have resembled a failing whorehouse, as one journalist described it, but it provided reliable heating, well-equipped air-raid shelters, and the luxury of en-suite bathrooms with hot water. It was a refuge from the harsh realities of wartime Moscow.
The Propaganda War: Stalin’s Victory and Its Consequences
Philps astutely concludes that Stalin won the propaganda war, partly due to the complicity of the Moscow press corps in suppressing negative coverage of the Soviet Union. This sanitized image of Stalin left the British public ill-prepared to confront the terrifying reality of the impending Cold War. The consequences of this distorted perception would reverberate for years to come.
The Red Hotel: Moscow 1941, the Metropol Hotel, and the Untold Story of Stalin’s Propaganda War by Alan Philps is a gripping account that sheds light on a pivotal moment in history. It delves into the hidden world of the Metropol and the journalists who navigated the treacherous landscape of Soviet Russia.
Andrew Stuttaford is the editor of National Review‘s Capital Matters.
How did the presence of journalists in the Tored space at the Metropol hotel challenge the Soviet authorities?
Tored space, where journalists ate, slept, and socialized under the watchful eye of the Soviet authorities. The hotel became a microcosm of the changing political landscape, where the glamor and opulence of the past intersected with the harsh realities of the present.
A Nexus of Art and Politics: Weimar Moscow
Throughout its history, the Metropol has been both a witness and participant in the cultural and political shifts of Moscow. In the years leading up to World War II, the hotel served as a hub for artists, writers, and intellectuals from all over the world. Figures like Sergei Eisenstein, Boris Pasternak, and Osip Mandelstam frequented its halls, engaging in conversations that shaped the artistic and intellectual landscape. The hotel’s famed dining room, the Shchyolkin, became a meeting place for the most influential minds of the time.
This vibrant cultural scene came to be known as “Weimar Moscow,” a term coined by the German journalist Friedrich Sieburg. Drawing parallels to the artistic and intellectual scene of Weimar Republic Berlin, Weimar Moscow represented a spirit of creativity, experimentation, and intellectual ferment that flourished amidst the political turmoil and repression. In the hotel’s salons and bars, ideas were exchanged, and artistic collaborations were forged.
A Transitory Space: The Metropol Today
Today, the Metropol stands as a symbol of resilience and continuity in a rapidly changing Moscow. While the characters who populate its hallways may have changed, the allure and mystique of the hotel remain. It continues to attract artists, intellectuals, and those seeking a glimpse into the city’s past. The Metropol’s elegant facade and ornate interiors harken back to a bygone era, while its modern amenities and impeccable service cater to the needs of contemporary travelers.
Sitting in the lobby of the Metropol, it is easy to imagine oneself transported to a different time and place. The echoes of past conversations and the ghosts of former patrons seem to linger in the air. As the world rushes by outside, the Metropol remains a sanctuary of history and culture, inviting visitors to catch a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Weimar Moscow.
As I sat in that lobby all those years ago, sipping my coffee and observing the eclectic mix of individuals passing through, I couldn’t help but appreciate the extraordinary legacy of the Metropol. It stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of Moscow, a city that has witnessed immense change yet manages to hold on to its traditions and artistic fervor. The Metropol remains a beacon of culture and history, inviting us to explore the intersection of art, politics, and human experience.
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