Satisfying Shore
The Enchanting and Contradictory South of France
A Hidden Beauty
The South of France is a mesmerizing destination, but only if you know where to look. Turn your back on the coast, and you’ll discover a landscape that has remained virtually untouched since ancient times. The Mediterranean sea and sky, just as breathtaking as they were to the Greeks who settled here centuries ago, reveal themselves in all their glory.
A Boschian Holiday Resort
Imagine if Hieronymus Bosch designed a vacation spot – that’s what St. Tropez feels like in the summer. And it’s not just St. Tropez; the entire coastline, from Marseilles to Menton, is a chaotic mix of concrete-covered hillsides, flashy sports cars, and bustling camper vans. The harbors reek of oil and other unpleasant odors, while the harborside restaurants are both overpriced and foul-smelling. Yet, despite all this, I visited last summer and had an absolute blast.
A Dreamlike Escape
The locals joke that Nice gets its name from “Ni ici, ni là“: “Neither here nor there.” It’s a city that exists between worlds, neither fully French nor Italian. Nice is a living, breathing city that also serves as a stage set for a fantastical dream. Visitors flock here to escape reality, just as tuberculosis patients once sought solace in the open-air hospitals that dotted the Riviera. The English invented the French Riviera as a home away from home in the 19th century, while the Americans reinvented it in the 20th century as a sophisticated alternative to their own country. The Germans, well, they left their mark too. And the French? They’ve catered to the world’s desires and turned the Riviera into a playground for the wealthy.
A Never-Ending Story
The Once Upon a Time World by Jonathan Miles tells the captivating tale of the Riviera’s creation and transformation. While some may argue that the Riviera is being “unmade,” the truth is that it will continue to exist in all its glory. From its humble beginnings as a coast dotted with fishing villages and bustling ports, it evolved into an exclusive resort for the rich, a haven for artists, and eventually a playground for the world’s elite. The view remains unchanged, and so the Riviera will endure, much like a Disney cruise that has mysteriously slipped into the Bermuda Triangle.
A Playground for the Rich and Famous
The Riviera’s allure was discovered by English travelers in the 18th century as they made their way to Italy. They marveled at the novel pleasures of swimming and indulged in refreshing sorbets, all while battling the relentless onslaught of flies, fleas, and gnats. The Riviera became a playground for European aristocracy, with the English and Russian elites flocking to its shores. Artists such as Van Gogh, Monet, and Cézanne found inspiration in its breathtaking landscapes. The Riviera became a blank canvas for artists with a fresh vision, resulting in a rich artistic legacy that can still be admired today.
A Playground for Everyone
After World War I, the Riviera experienced a surge in popularity, attracting American tourists who added a touch of glitz and glamour to the already vibrant scene. The eccentric millionaire Frank Jay Gould built luxurious hotels, and the Fitzgeralds reveled on the beaches. The Riviera became synonymous with indulgence and excess, a place where pleasure and danger intertwined. However, as mass tourism took hold, the coast transformed into a ribbon of concrete and glass, losing some of its charm along the way. Yet, the Riviera remains a paradoxical place, both crass and sophisticated, attracting dreamers from all walks of life.
A Timeless Destination
Despite its ups and downs, the Riviera has managed to retain its allure. The view remains as captivating as ever, and the phrases in John Murray’s old guidebook still ring true. The Riviera is a place where reality and fiction intertwine, where the invented part of life holds a certain beauty. So, why not embark on a journey to the South of France? Jonathan Miles’s book is the perfect companion, guiding you through the footsteps of those who have left their mark on this enchanting coastline. From Oscar Wilde to Jacques Cousteau, their stories come alive as you explore the Riviera’s past and present.
The Once Upon a Time World: The Dark and Sparkling Story of the French Riviera by Jonathan Miles is a must-read for anyone captivated by the allure of this extraordinary destination.
Dominic Green is a Wall Street Journal contributor and a fellow of the Royal Historical Society.
What makes the South of France a gastronomic paradise and what culinary delights can be found there?
And writers, such as Picasso, Matisse, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, were also drawn to the region, captivated by its charm and beauty. The South of France soon became synonymous with luxury, elegance, and style.
An Artistic Haven
The South of France has always been a haven for artists, providing inspiration with its stunning landscapes and vibrant colors. The town of Arles, famously captured in many of Van Gogh’s paintings, still retains its artistic spirit. The small fishing village of Collioure, with its picturesque harbor and vibrant colors, attracted artists such as Henri Matisse and André Derain, who were inspired by its beauty. The region continues to inspire and nurture artistic talent, with numerous galleries, museums, and festivals dedicated to the arts.
A Gastronomic Paradise
The South of France is renowned for its culinary delights. From the fresh seafood of Marseille to the truffles of Provence, the region offers a tantalizing array of flavors. The Mediterranean diet, with its emphasis on fresh produce, olive oil, and herbs, is celebrated here. The local markets are a feast for the senses, with an abundance of colorful fruits, vegetables, and aromatic spices. And of course, no visit to the South of France is complete without sampling the world-famous wines of Bordeaux, Provence, and the Côtes du Rhône.
A Cultural Melting Pot
The South of France has a rich and diverse cultural heritage. Influences from Italy, Spain, and North Africa can be seen in the architecture, cuisine, and language of the region. From the Roman ruins in Nîmes and the medieval streets of Carcassonne to the vibrant markets of Nice and the bustling port of Marseille, the South of France offers a fascinating blend of history, culture, and tradition.
An Endless Summer
One of the greatest attractions of the South of France is its climate. With over 300 days of sunshine a year, the region enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate that makes it a year-round destination. The long, warm summers are perfect for lazy days on the beach, while the mild winters are ideal for exploring the charming villages and towns that dot the countryside. Whether you’re basking in the sun or strolling through lavender fields, the South of France promises an endless summer.
Conclusion
The South of France is a paradoxical destination that enchants and surprises. From the glamour of St. Tropez to the quiet beauty of the countryside, the region offers something for everyone. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, a foodie, or simply looking for a place to relax and unwind, the South of France has it all. It’s a place where contradictions blend seamlessly, creating a unique and unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags and prepare to be enchanted by the magic of the South of France.
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